African Flavors Are Closer Than You Think

Stepping through the door of Halisi Africa is like Dorothy realizing she’s “not in Kansas anymore!” Here, the aroma of smoky spices, exotic teas, curried sauces and fruity infusions engulf you, confirming one thing to be true — the ancient culinary traditions of Africa have arrived in Tallahassee.

The restaurant, which fuses Africa’s tradition of unprocessed, wholesome foods with America’s penchant for readily identifiable flavors, is a labor of love for Dr. Vanessa Byrd and her son, Bryant Shaw. The mother-son duo smiles at the mural-covered walls that house Halisi Africa and excitedly point to Saharan Tuareg jewelry, Tanzanian and Ethiopian dresses and shelves of packaged beans, sauces and spices from all across the African continent.

Egusi Stew with Fufu, a type of dumpling. The dish contains toasted and ground Egusi melon seeds simmered in a stew of tomatoes, sweet peppers, onions, garlic and spices, including habanero pepper. Photo by Dave Barfield

When talking with Byrd, however, it’s clear she never thought her professional life would revolve around Ethiopian oxtail, Moroccan lamb or Kenyan curried goat. She compares her journey from Ph.D. to restaurateur to that of a “chameleon.” But despite the changing colors of her career, Byrd’s abiding interest in people, their education and well-being has always guided her.

Byrd’s father was a Harvard Business School graduate, Florida A&M University professor and successful entrepreneur, and her mother was a registered nurse. Like them, she was intelligent, curious and had the benefit of choice.

“I originally thought I’d become a doctor,” she said. “I did become an R.N. but then went on to FSU for a master’s in community health education.”

Byrd started a health magazine titled Healthy Traditions and added a doctorate from Texas A&M to her list of health care degrees. She taught at Tallahassee Community College and online at the University of Texas Medical Branch. And in her personal life, she donned the titles of wife, mother and, along with her polyglot son, world traveler. 

Traveling, immersing themselves in different cultures and learning new languages came naturally to Byrd and Shaw.

Shaw, now an integral part of Halisi Africa, learned Spanish in Spain and Arabic, French, Italian and Portuguese through interactions with friends. At one point, the young linguist studied in Senegal and moved to the Tanzanian archipelago of Zanzibar, where he learned Swahili. Byrd, for her part, loved Africa and traveled there as often as possible.

Before enjoying your meal, browse Halisi Africa’s boutique (above, left), which offers spices, coffees, teas and other gourmet items from Africa. Photo by Dave Barfield

“I loved the clothes I saw … the beautiful embroidered Ethiopian dresses, the sophisticated cities, the flavors that were both different and familiar, and the immediate connection I could have with the people I met,” she said.

It was, perhaps, during this period of travel that Byrd heard some “whispers” from her entrepreneurial father, for in 2019, she and her husband rented a tent for Black History Month’s Harambee Festival in downtown Tallahassee. The goal was to sell clothing she had picked up on her trips to Africa. She thought that if she liked them, others might, too. And as it turns out, Byrd was right.

“It was amazing!” Byrd said of her booth’s reception.

Within months, Byrd opened Halisi Africa in Railroad Square.

“‘Halisi’ in Swahili means ‘authentic,’ or ‘made in Africa,’” she explained. “In addition to our clothes and small items, we hosted intimate events like cacao tastings, where (we introduced) coffees and teas, ancient grains and spices, as well as the culture I so much admired.”

Halisi Africa started as a boutique, but it’s become much more. In addition to offering African-made goods, Shaw oversees a study abroad program through the space, “designed to help the African diaspora connect to Africans on the continent.” And thanks to a certification from the health inspector, it also doubles as a restaurant. 

“I couldn’t believe it when he said it!” Byrd said, recalling the health inspector’s visit. “He told us our kitchen was certified as a restaurant kitchen. We could actually cook meals and have restaurant guests!”

Byrd was delighted.

Guava Fruit Infusion- don’t forget to simmer down with a refreshing beverage — enjoy a specialty tea (iced or hot), fruit infusion, cocktail or wine. Photo by Dave Barfield

They began with tapas-like fare. Special evening events titled “A Taste of Africa” utilized small plates to introduce people to African flavors. Now, they offer full dinners of “Afro-fusion cuisine.”

“Here, we cook grandma’s recipes,” she said.

Guests can enjoy gomen (collard greens), okro stew with fufu (a blend of casava and plantain to dip in the stew), Saharan couscous with salmon or jackfruit, a cold Egyptian guava infusion or African baobab fruit tea.

Whatever you decide, Byrd promises you’ll enjoy a blend of the familiar with an African flare. 

Ah, that’s halisi!

Halisi Afro-Fusion Boutique & Cafe

Located at 625-17 Railroad Square. For more information, call (850) 739-3129 or visit halisiafrica.com.