Saskatchewan pork producers face impact of Chinese tariffs

At King of Duck, a Chinese barbecue restaurant in Saskatoon, the chef carefully prepares pork for the day's service. 

The restaurant specializes in roasted and barbecued meats — a staple of Chinese cuisine. Philip Zhang, the restaurant's manager, came to Saskatoon after 20 years cooking Chinese barbecue in Toronto. He said his restaurant is the first of its kind in Saskatchewan.

Some of the most popular dishes involve pork, including roasted pork belly and char siu.

"Pork to the Chinese culture is very important," Zhang said. "On any special occasion — weddings, birthdays — pork is a must."

Pork is one of several industries targeted in a trade dispute between Canada and China.

In October, the Canadian government imposed tariffs on Chinese electric vehicles. In response, China announced a 25 per cent tariff on Canadian pork taking effect on March 20, raising concerns for Saskatchewan's producers.

Eric Micheels, an associate professor in agricultural economics at the University of Saskatchewan, said China is a key market for pork — but not the only one.

"China is the third most important destination for Canadian pork exports," Micheels said. "But we're maybe more reliant on China than they are on us."

Micheels said China can source pork from other multiple countries, such as Brazil and Spain, while Canadian pork producers will take a hit as they try to find other markets.

"Canada exports over half a billion dollars to China," said Mark Ferguson, general manager of Sask Pork. "Canada's pork exports are annually over $4 billion. So that's a huge chunk of our total market."

Micheels said losing market access or facing higher costs could force some producers to reconsider their strategies.

"The best thing producers can do right now is stay as efficient as possible," Micheels said. "That's what makes Canadian pork competitive."

Local farmers see shift in demand

While larger producers worry about the impact of tariffs, not all pork farmers are affected.

Ben Martens Bartel, who owns Grovenland Farm near Lanigan, doesn't rely on exports. He sells the pork he raises directly to consumers across Saskatchewan.

"We have a small land base, so we need to have a diversified farm," Bartel says. "We produce food rather than commodities."

Since the tariff announcement, Bartel has noticed a surge in demand for locally-sourced pork.

"I've had a lot of calls, a lot of emails," he said. "But with pigs, it takes eight to 10 months to increase production. Right now, I have more interest in my products than I have supply."

Bartel said a stronger mix of large, small and mid-sized farms would make the pork industry more resilient to global trade disruptions.

As tensions between Canada, China and the United States play out, Bartel is hopeful that more consumers will consider buying local.

"Building that relationship between agriculture and consumers — where your neighbour is producing your food — it's good for us," he says. "And in the long run, it's good for everyone."